Written by Hayley Rochford, Great Walks Magazine
There’s nothing like getting on the SeaLink ferry and heading to Kangaroo Island; it’s the perfect entry into Island time, an invitation to slow down and enter holiday mode. We headed over the week before Christmas for the second year in a row and it appeared I had found my perfect island time. Singing “School’s out for summer”, this teacher was ready for an adventure. Kangaroo Island offers so much, and this time we were seeking adventure, simplicity, space and some luxury, which at this time of year is a real and somewhat rare treat.
Kangaroo Island has recently been named #2 in Lonely Planet’s ‘Must Visit Regions’. However, it has been my #1 for a LONG time! It’s the ideal place to go for a connection to nature and time to be in awe. The Island offers something special at every time of year and is a walker’s dream. Having said that, it’s also a food lover’s dream, a fisherman’s dream, a surfer’s playground, a wine and bird watcher’s paradise, and a gin fan’s destination, for cyclists, and artists … okay, there is something for everyone! It’s the BEST.
However, this story is going to tell you about it being a hiker’s dream…
Re-opening on the Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail
This time round (December 2023) our trip felt like we had got the trifecta: experiencing the reopening of three special places – the Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail (KIWT), Kelly Hill Caves and Southern Ocean Lodge.
The KIWT reopened for independent walkers early in December 2023 after being closed since the bushfires of 2019–20, and what a treat it was to be some of the first back on the track. For me, it was my third time walking this trail, and it holds a special place in my heart and memory, which will only continue to grow as I plan to walk the trail each year.
The KIWT is a 5-day, 66km walking trail that takes you through magnificent landscapes to some of the Island’s must-see attractions such as Admirals Arch, Hanson Bay, Remarkable Rocks and Kelly Hill Caves. It’s a grade 4 hike, so a bushwalking experience is recommended, and it rewards you every day. The trail can be accessed as a self-guided multi-day hike or with an organised walking tour, and some sections you can access as a day walk.
For me, I love nothing more than packing all I need for 5 days into a backpack and heading out; there is something special about carrying all that you need and knowing once you head off that what you have is it. The packing and preparation are part of the experience and once you have a good packing list and a few camp food ideas, it’s fab.
Best time for a hike on Kangaroo Island
Although summer is not the usual ‘walking season’, I was keen to get back on the trail as soon as it opened, and we had watched the forecast closely before heading off. We were lucky with the forecast offering up mild summer weather with cool evenings and gentle days (aside from day one, which was wet and stormy, just to keep it real). The suggested time to walk the trail is March through to November, however as you know, you can’t plan the weather.
The Hike
Day one: Flinders Chase Visitor Centre to Snake Lagoon
Heading off on day one full of joy, we departed from the temporary Flinders Chase Visitor Centre, as the new one is still under construction. We were given a map, weather forecast, information about the trail, and many warm well wishes from the excited Department of Environment and Water staff, who were clearly delighted to have independent walkers back on the trail. Day one takes you to Snake Lagoon which is 18km of wonderful walking, where you begin to find your groove. This section is open to day walkers, so you may meet some others on the way, but once you get near camp, you know you’re on a multi-day walk.
The campsite on night one is called Cup Gum and is beautifully positioned in the landscape with seating options that allow you to sit within the space and soak up all the solitude and sounds of birds chirping and ocean waves crashing. We loved the campground and noted the improvements that have been made in the rebuild, including the animal-proof cupboards, hooks for gear and combustion fireplaces (closed for summer, but I’ll be back when they are open).
Day two: Snake Lagoon to Cape du Couedic
We were blessed with glorious weather, and the excitement built. Day two is my favourite. From Snake Lagoon to Cape du Couedic, a 14km day, and as you head off in the morning and climb the steady incline, you are rewarded with the sight of Rocky River meeting the Southern Ocean. It’s something that must be seen to be believed – the power of the ocean, the colours, the cliffs – it is stunning. The trail is undulating, and it’s all the best parts of walking coming together: amazing views, feeling the elements, and the rhythm of one foot in front of the other.
Day three: Cape du Couedic to Sanderson Bay
Day three sees you walking 13km from Cape du Couedic to Sanderson Bay and gives you the opportunity to take an optional trail to explore Remarkable Rocks; it is a must-do! Visiting Remarkable Rocks is a time when you will see other people and walk a bit taller. People love to chat and hear about multi-day adventures and marvel at your snail-like lifestyle, carrying everything you need on your back. Night three we camped at Banksia Campground near Sanderson Bay and headed for a stroll and fossick on the beach after setting up camp.
Day four: Sanderson Bay to Grassdale
Day four is Sanderson Bay to Grassdale, a lovely 13.5km walk where you must keep your eyes peeled for echidnas. This section has you crossing the South West River and this is a highlight: a great pulley system boat crossing. Then there’s an optional side trip to Hanson Bay, which for me is also a must-visit - this beach is something special.
Night four saw us camping at Tea Tree Campground near the historic Grassdale property. We took an evening stroll to Edward’s Cottage at sunset to see the old cottage and enjoyed watching the ’roos have their evening nibble – a great end to the day. The final campsite has a great fire-pit and seating area to reflect on your adventure. This campground is spread out and is the perfect, peaceful final evening on the trail.
Day five
The final day is a short and sweet 7.5km walk taking you past the magnificent Grassdale Lagoon filled with birds. It’s a bird-watcher paradise and we spotted gorgeous royal spoonbills. We could have spent all day there but chose to stop and snack on a few of the last treats in the bags and then walked the last few kilometres slowly with the feeling of not wanting it to end. Before long, we were walking through the ‘gates of completion’, as I like to call them, and feeling very proud of ourselves.
Kelly Hill Caves
On completion, you arrive at Kelly Hill caves which have also reopened (post fires) and now includes a fabulous audio-visual show, offering a history of the Island and well-done lighting and sound show. The voice of the audio is as smooth as honey and made me want to curl up and camp in the cave for a few nights.
Southern Ocean Lodge
We were lucky enough to find the perfect end to a multiday walk - a night of luxury in the newly reopened Southern Ocean Lodge. It certainly exceeded all expectations. The experience of luxury and care was the perfect final night and antidote to sore muscles. The rebuilding and reopening of the lodge is fabulous, preserving the same spectacular view, luxury, and care. It continues to offer the ability to enable connection to nature in every space within the lodge, from the sauna plunge pools to the restaurant and grand room.
Start planning your trip
The Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail offers something for all the walkers. Experienced multi-day walkers will appreciate the time and space for rest and reflection, along with wildlife, stunning views, the unique magic of KI, and a walk that really has you wanting to come back again and again. For those just starting out or thinking about their first multi-day hike, KIWT is a great place to start. Get training, get some experience under your belt, and get planning.
